When it comes to the business of Specialty Coffee, both in Taiwan and Japan, the focus is on pursuing better and more refined flavors. A comprehensive evaluation system has been established for these coffees. Green beans that score highly within this system allow farms or companies to gain higher returns through commercial models such as auctions. Roasters then roast these beans to bring out their unique aromas and flavors, and different brewing methods highlight the distinctions between Specialty Coffee and regular commercial coffee.
Just like the evaluation systems for wine or whisky that define both flavor profiles and market prices, Specialty Coffee follows a similar approach. Depending on origin and processing method, green beans are tested and roasted by professional roasters to develop unique flavors. Typically, small roasting machines of 5 kg capacity or less are used for multiple small-batch roasts. The products are often released as different origins and processing styles of coffee beans.
Because the flavors of coffee vary widely with origin and processing, roasters must continually test and make fine adjustments to stabilize the quality of each batch. Furthermore, every year, due to climate and human factors, green beans from each producing region differ in flavor and price. This variability is also what makes Specialty Coffee so fascinating.
The key difference between Specialty Coffee and mass-produced commercial coffee, which prioritizes low-cost production, lies in the introduction and promotion of high-quality green beans while striving to stabilize both quality and price.
Therefore, one of the main efforts of small specialty roasters is to promote and highlight the differences between Specialty Coffee and ordinary commercial coffee.
A typical example in Japan is **GLITCH COFFEE & ROASTERS**, a Specialty Coffee roaster. Their shop displays more than 15 varieties of single-origin coffees, featuring different estates and processing methods. Each coffee includes detailed information such as the estate, processing method, and roast level. The shop also creates a unique professional atmosphere and offers rare beans that are not commonly found in other cafés, while developing coffee beverages with flavors and profiles that are approachable and enjoyable for customers.
In Taiwan, many small, independent roasters adopt a similar approach—selling and promoting their preferred Specialty Coffees in their own distinctive ways.
First of all, the definition of Specialty Coffee does not specifically refer to Taiwanese coffee beans. Rather, compared to commercial coffee beans, it involves more refined processing, such as grading beans by size, using a single varietal, applying a single processing method, and removing defective beans. By improving the quality of green beans, Specialty Coffee is able to present a cleaner and brighter expression of the characteristics of its origin.
Specialty Coffee is established based on the standards of bulk commercial coffee beans, identifying green beans with better quality and superior flavor in terms of basic bean quality and cup profile.
Therefore, when it comes to the basic quality of green beans, as much information as possible is clearly indicated for each lot, including:
2. Farm or processing station (the producer or smallholder handling the coffee)
3. Processing method
4. Harvest year and lot number
5. Bean size (in some countries, such as Colombia or Indonesia, this is specified)
6. Moisture content and density (usually provided by green coffee traders)
7. Grade (some origins use G2, G3 to indicate grade; Kenya uses AA, AB; each producing country has its own system. Grades indicate the proportion of defects, with higher grades expected to have fewer defects)
With the above information, each lot of green beans is clearly identified. Green coffee traders or roasters then conduct cupping to describe the flavor profile, and decisions to purchase are based on price and availability.
In general, roasters and coffee shops have their own standards for recognizing bean quality, but their evaluations rely mainly on information provided by traders and the actual cup profile. This requires extensive cupping and accumulated knowledge of different origins.
In Taiwan and Japan, roasters or shops request price lists from traders and participate in cupping sessions organized by green coffee traders. These cuppings are conducted using standardized methods, and customers cup each sample to decide whether to purchase.
Cupping sessions typically feature 8 to 20 different green bean samples. These beans are often produced in limited quantities, with varying grades across farms, and availability depends on production volume.
A common situation is that coffee beans from the same region or farm differ from year to year. For example, Ethiopian coffee beans—even from the same region or processing station—show clear variations in flavor and price each harvest year.
In the operation of Specialty Coffee, the roaster and the barista are the soul of the shop.
In Taiwan, the roaster often also works as the barista, explaining and describing the flavors of the coffee beans, and providing customers with a sensory experience and appreciation of coffee flavors.
In Japan, however, shops tend to establish standard operating procedures (SOPs) for brewing, supported by extensive written materials, allowing customers to select from a wide variety of origins. Some roasters even offer customers the option to pre-order freshly roasted coffee beans.
Fresh roasting is also a hallmark of Specialty Coffee roasters. Shops typically prepare only freshly roasted beans within one month of roasting, and roasters roast additional beans on-site according to sales volume. This is why Specialty Coffee roasters usually have a roasting machine in the shop.
A roaster must possess the following abilities:
1. Basic cupping skills
2. Operation of roasting machines and the ability to roast coffee beans
A barista must possess:
1. Basic cupping skills
2. Familiarity with various brewing methods and equipment
The video is about several key aspects of a proper coffee cupping process. Its main focus is on having a stable and consistent procedure, minimizing brewing-related variables, and evaluating the flavors of the coffee within a set timeframe.
Key points include:
* Establishing a reliable, repeatable process so that results are consistent cup-to-cup
* Reducing or controlling variables in the brewing/infusion stage (e.g. water temperature, grind size, brew ratio) so differences in flavor come from the coffee itself rather than the method
* Tasting (cupping) within a time window after brewing so that flavors are evaluated while still fresh, before they degrade or change too much
咖啡杯測方式通常分為,卓越杯 − COE ( Cup of Excellence ) 與精品咖啡協會−SCA(specialty coffee association)
Coffee cupping methods are generally divided into two types: the **Cup of Excellence (COE)** protocol and the **Specialty Coffee Association (SCA)** protocol.
For green coffee procurement, we usually follow the SCA method. However, some roasters—especially older or more traditional ones—still use their own cupping styles, such as brewing with a pour-over dripper. Even so, the SCA cupping protocol remains the standard adopted by most green coffee traders and younger roasters. It is especially efficient when evaluating 10 to 20 cups of coffee at a time.
Originally, the **Q Grader** system promoted by the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) was the main evaluation method adopted by the coffee industry. However, this year it was merged into the **CVA system** under the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA). For those who wish to gain a deeper understanding of Specialty Coffee, learning the CVA system is an excellent approach.
That said, evaluation is not entirely centered on Q Grader or CVA, because flavor preferences differ across regions. The evaluation systems developed mainly in Europe and the U.S. reflect Western taste preferences, which are not always fully accepted in Asia. As a result, many roasters have developed their own evaluation criteria. Moreover, not every roaster is fully familiar with standardized cupping methods—yet this does not prevent them from roasting delicious coffee beans.
After understanding the cupping protocol itself, the next point of discussion is the **roast level used for cupping**.
The roast level for cupping is often influenced by green coffee traders, since each trader has their own approach to roasting small batches of green beans for cupping purposes. There is no universally fixed rule. For example, during Kenyan green coffee auctions, sample roasts are provided for cupping, but the roast levels are not always consistent. This inconsistency may be due to the high frequency of roasting required each day, and the greater emphasis placed on cupping results and pricing. In some cases, beans are even roasted too dark, yet still used for cupping.
In Taiwan, the typical roast level for cupping is defined as dropping the beans 7–9 minutes into the roast, usually around **one minute into first crack**. This is referred to as **sample roasting**.
Sample roasts are usually small lots sent by producers to green coffee traders. The number of samples can range from 5–10 up to several dozen, with each sample typically weighing 50 g or 100 g.
Originally, cupping was not a common practice in Taiwan’s small independent roasteries; it was primarily used within green coffee trading companies. However, over the past 20 years, Taiwan has introduced **SCA and CQI courses**, along with hosting various roasting, brewing, and cupping competitions. This has encouraged many young people to study and develop cupping systems. As a result, a significant number of Taiwanese roasters today are familiar with cupping methods, and many even hold **Q Grader certification**.
Specialty Coffee places greater emphasis on **diversity of green beans**. Popular origins in the market include Ethiopia, Kenya, Colombia, Guatemala, and Costa Rica, while high-quality Panamanian estate coffees are considered premium Specialty Coffee products.
Taiwanese coffee farmers are actively learning and improving their practices, participating in various international green coffee evaluations to increase their profits.
This reflects the original intent of Specialty Coffee: **outstanding products earn higher returns in the consumer market, which encourages producers to continuously improve quality**.
But how can high-quality green beans be promoted and sold?
This is a key consideration for most roasters. Improving the quality of green beans allows roasters to express richer and more complex flavors, which in turn significantly increases the price. How to make this price acceptable to consumers relies largely on the roaster’s commercial packaging and presentation.
Therefore, offering **evaluation courses** that educate consumers about the roasting process, the origin of the beans, and other details adds value beyond just the flavor of Specialty Coffee. These additional insights help convey the full worth of Specialty Coffee to customers.
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