Speciality Coffee Roaster _A

關於 Speciality Coffee在商業上的經營,無論是台灣或是日本,都盡可能的在追求更美味的風味的咖啡、並為這些咖啡建立了一整套的評鑑制度;而在這制度中獲得高分的生豆,莊園或公司經由拍賣等商業模式來獲得更高的收益,烘豆師烘焙這些生豆,表現出特有的香氣、風味,並藉由各種沖煮設備來表現 Speciality Coffee與商業咖啡的不同之處。

正如紅酒或威士忌的評鑑制度來界定出風味與市場價格。

Speciality Coffee 針對不同產地、處理法的生豆,由烘豆師測試並烘焙出獨有的風味,大多採用5kg以下的烘豆機,多批次的少量烘焙,在產品上也會推出各種產地與處理法的咖啡豆。

由於產地、處理法風味的大相逕庭,烘豆師必須不斷的測試與細微調整來穩定該批次咖啡豆的品質。

而每年因為氣候、人為因素等影響,各產區的生豆都會有風味與價格上的差異,這也是Speciality Coffee的有趣之處。

When it comes to the business of Specialty Coffee, both in Taiwan and Japan, the focus is on pursuing better and more refined flavors. A comprehensive evaluation system has been established for these coffees. Green beans that score highly within this system allow farms or companies to gain higher returns through commercial models such as auctions. Roasters then roast these beans to bring out their unique aromas and flavors, and different brewing methods highlight the distinctions between Specialty Coffee and regular commercial coffee.

Just like the evaluation systems for wine or whisky that define both flavor profiles and market prices, Specialty Coffee follows a similar approach. Depending on origin and processing method, green beans are tested and roasted by professional roasters to develop unique flavors. Typically, small roasting machines of 5 kg capacity or less are used for multiple small-batch roasts. The products are often released as different origins and processing styles of coffee beans.

Because the flavors of coffee vary widely with origin and processing, roasters must continually test and make fine adjustments to stabilize the quality of each batch. Furthermore, every year, due to climate and human factors, green beans from each producing region differ in flavor and price. This variability is also what makes Specialty Coffee so fascinating.

Speciality Coffee 與商業咖啡的大量生產的低成本考量最大的不同,就是引進與推廣高品質生豆並試著穩定品質與價格。

所以如何推廣Speciality Coffee 與一般的商業咖啡之間不同之處,則是這些小型的烘焙咖啡店家努力的方向。

日本的 GLITCH COFFEE & ROASTERS 就是典型的 Speciality Coffee Roaster,店面裡陳列15種以上的單一產區、莊園、處理法的咖啡豆,每種咖啡豆的內容包含了莊園的資料、處理法、烘焙度等等,並在店裡提供更多其他咖啡店沒有的專業氛圍與少見的咖啡豆,並在咖啡飲品上調製出容易被客戶接受的口感風味等等。

在台灣有很多這種小型的自家烘焙咖啡店,也都採用類似的方式販售推廣各自喜歡的 Speciality Coffee。

The key difference between Specialty Coffee and mass-produced commercial coffee, which prioritizes low-cost production, lies in the introduction and promotion of high-quality green beans while striving to stabilize both quality and price.

Therefore, one of the main efforts of small specialty roasters is to promote and highlight the differences between Specialty Coffee and ordinary commercial coffee.

A typical example in Japan is **GLITCH COFFEE & ROASTERS**, a Specialty Coffee roaster. Their shop displays more than 15 varieties of single-origin coffees, featuring different estates and processing methods. Each coffee includes detailed information such as the estate, processing method, and roast level. The shop also creates a unique professional atmosphere and offers rare beans that are not commonly found in other cafés, while developing coffee beverages with flavors and profiles that are approachable and enjoyable for customers.

In Taiwan, many small, independent roasters adopt a similar approach—selling and promoting their preferred Specialty Coffees in their own distinctive ways.

首先,Speciality Coffee的定義並非單指台灣的咖啡豆,而是相較於商業咖啡豆而言,更多的精緻化處理,例如生豆大小的選別、單一樹種、單一處理法、去除瑕疵豆等等,生豆的品質提高,能夠呈現更乾淨明亮的產地特色。

First of all, the definition of Specialty Coffee does not specifically refer to Taiwanese coffee beans. Rather, compared to commercial coffee beans, it involves more refined processing, such as grading beans by size, using a single varietal, applying a single processing method, and removing defective beans. By improving the quality of green beans, Specialty Coffee is able to present a cleaner and brighter expression of the characteristics of its origin.

Speciality Coffee是從大宗商業咖啡豆的標準開始建立的,在基本的生豆品質、杯測風味上找出品質更好、風味更佳的生豆。

因此對於基本的生豆品質,盡可能明確地標示出該批次生豆的各種資料,包括:

1.產地 (包括國家、省份、地區、海拔高度等等)

2.莊園或處理廠 (生產或處理咖啡生豆的廠商或小農)

3.處理法

4.生產年份、批次

5.豆體大小 (一部分國家會標示,例如哥倫比亞或印尼)

6.水份、密度 (通常由生豆商提供)

7.等級 (部分採用G2、G3來標示等級,肯亞則是用AA、AB標示等級,每個產地標示等級的方式不同,由等級來確認瑕疵的比例,等級越高瑕疵比例應該更低)

藉由以上的資訊來明確表示這批次生豆,並由生豆商或是烘豆師進行杯測,描述風味,再根據價格、產量決定是否購買。

一般烘豆店家對於生豆品質會具備一定的辨識標準,但主要建立在由生豆商提供的資料與實際杯測的風味來評估購買的可能性;因此需要進行大量的杯測與累積對各生豆產地的認識。

在台灣、日本,烘豆師或店家會向生豆商索取生豆的報價單,並且參加各生豆商索舉辦的生豆杯測會,杯測採用標準杯測方式進行,而參與的客戶則一一杯測,決定是否購買。

杯測會通常會有8~20種生豆可供選擇。

這類型的生豆大多產量稀少,莊園的生豆等級不同,可供購買的量也有多寡之別。

常見的狀況是每年同一個產區莊園所生產的咖啡生豆風味並不一致,例如衣索比亞的咖啡豆即使在同一個產區或處理廠,每年的風味與價格都有明顯的差異。

Specialty Coffee is established based on the standards of bulk commercial coffee beans, identifying green beans with better quality and superior flavor in terms of basic bean quality and cup profile.

Therefore, when it comes to the basic quality of green beans, as much information as possible is clearly indicated for each lot, including:

1. Origin (country, province, region, altitude, etc.)

2. Farm or processing station (the producer or smallholder handling the coffee)

3. Processing method

4. Harvest year and lot number

5. Bean size (in some countries, such as Colombia or Indonesia, this is specified)

6. Moisture content and density (usually provided by green coffee traders)

7. Grade (some origins use G2, G3 to indicate grade; Kenya uses AA, AB; each producing country has its own system. Grades indicate the proportion of defects, with higher grades expected to have fewer defects)

With the above information, each lot of green beans is clearly identified. Green coffee traders or roasters then conduct cupping to describe the flavor profile, and decisions to purchase are based on price and availability.

In general, roasters and coffee shops have their own standards for recognizing bean quality, but their evaluations rely mainly on information provided by traders and the actual cup profile. This requires extensive cupping and accumulated knowledge of different origins.

In Taiwan and Japan, roasters or shops request price lists from traders and participate in cupping sessions organized by green coffee traders. These cuppings are conducted using standardized methods, and customers cup each sample to decide whether to purchase.

Cupping sessions typically feature 8 to 20 different green bean samples. These beans are often produced in limited quantities, with varying grades across farms, and availability depends on production volume.

A common situation is that coffee beans from the same region or farm differ from year to year. For example, Ethiopian coffee beans—even from the same region or processing station—show clear variations in flavor and price each harvest year.

Speciality Coffee的營運上,烘豆師與吧台沖煮師傅是一間店的靈魂人物。

在台灣,通常烘豆師也兼任吧台沖煮師傅,說明並講述咖啡豆的風味,提供給客戶對咖啡風味的品嘗與感動。

而日本則是建立沖煮咖啡的SOP,並輔以大量的書面資料,讓客戶可以挑選各種產地的咖啡豆,一部份的烘豆店家甚至提供客戶可事先預約新鮮烘焙的咖啡豆。

新鮮烘焙也是 Speciality Coffee Roaster 的特點,店內通常準備的都是一個月內烘焙的新鮮咖啡豆,而烘豆師根據店內的銷售狀況於現場烘焙咖啡豆上架。這也是 Speciality Coffee Roaster 店內通常有一台烘豆機的原因。

烘豆師需具備以下兩種能力:

1. 基本杯測

2. 操作烘豆機與烘焙咖啡豆

吧台沖煮師傅需具備:

1. 基本杯測

2. 熟悉各種沖煮設備

In the operation of Specialty Coffee, the roaster and the barista are the soul of the shop.

In Taiwan, the roaster often also works as the barista, explaining and describing the flavors of the coffee beans, and providing customers with a sensory experience and appreciation of coffee flavors.

In Japan, however, shops tend to establish standard operating procedures (SOPs) for brewing, supported by extensive written materials, allowing customers to select from a wide variety of origins. Some roasters even offer customers the option to pre-order freshly roasted coffee beans.

Fresh roasting is also a hallmark of Specialty Coffee roasters. Shops typically prepare only freshly roasted beans within one month of roasting, and roasters roast additional beans on-site according to sales volume. This is why Specialty Coffee roasters usually have a roasting machine in the shop.

A roaster must possess the following abilities:

1. Basic cupping skills
2. Operation of roasting machines and the ability to roast coffee beans

A barista must possess:

1. Basic cupping skills
2. Familiarity with various brewing methods and equipment



這個影片講述了咖啡杯測的幾個關鍵點,重點在於穩定的流程,減少沖煮的影響,並在時間內觀察品嘗咖啡的風味。

The video is about several key aspects of a proper coffee cupping process. Its main focus is on having a stable and consistent procedure, minimizing brewing-related variables, and evaluating the flavors of the coffee within a set timeframe.

Key points include:

* Establishing a reliable, repeatable process so that results are consistent cup-to-cup
* Reducing or controlling variables in the brewing/infusion stage (e.g. water temperature, grind size, brew ratio) so differences in flavor come from the coffee itself rather than the method
* Tasting (cupping) within a time window after brewing so that flavors are evaluated while still fresh, before they degrade or change too much

咖啡杯測方式通常分為,卓越杯 − COE ( Cup of Excellence ) 與精品咖啡協會−SCA(specialty coffee association)
我們採購咖啡生豆通常選擇SCA的方式。
而一部份的烘豆師(或是老一輩的烘豆師)則是採用自己的方式進行杯測,例如用濾杯沖煮等等,但SCA的杯測方式仍為大多數生豆商與年輕烘豆師採用,當杯測10~20杯咖啡時,是很有效率的。

Coffee cupping methods are generally divided into two types: the **Cup of Excellence (COE)** protocol and the **Specialty Coffee Association (SCA)** protocol.

For green coffee procurement, we usually follow the SCA method. However, some roasters—especially older or more traditional ones—still use their own cupping styles, such as brewing with a pour-over dripper. Even so, the SCA cupping protocol remains the standard adopted by most green coffee traders and younger roasters. It is especially efficient when evaluating 10 to 20 cups of coffee at a time.

原本的由 CQI 所推廣的Q Grader 為咖啡業界主要採用的評鑑方法,但在今年由SCA合併,改成 CVA系統。如果希望更深入了解 Speciality Coffee,那學習CVA是一個很好的方式。
但也並非完全以 Q Grader 或 CVA 為主,因為每個地區對於風味的喜好不同,以歐美為主的評測系統在風味上仍以歐美喜好為主,在亞洲不見得全然接受。因此有不少烘豆師都有自己的評測基準,也並非每個烘豆師都了解完整的杯測方式,但並不妨礙這些烘豆師能烘焙出美味的咖啡豆。

Originally, the **Q Grader** system promoted by the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) was the main evaluation method adopted by the coffee industry. However, this year it was merged into the **CVA system** under the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA). For those who wish to gain a deeper understanding of Specialty Coffee, learning the CVA system is an excellent approach.

That said, evaluation is not entirely centered on Q Grader or CVA, because flavor preferences differ across regions. The evaluation systems developed mainly in Europe and the U.S. reflect Western taste preferences, which are not always fully accepted in Asia. As a result, many roasters have developed their own evaluation criteria. Moreover, not every roaster is fully familiar with standardized cupping methods—yet this does not prevent them from roasting delicious coffee beans.

了解杯測的方式後,繼續討論杯測所使用的烘焙度。
杯測所使用的烘焙度受到生豆商的影響,因為每個生豆商有自己一套的烘焙方式來做為烘焙少量生豆,提供杯測使用,但並非有正確的規定,例如:肯亞生豆競標時雖然有提供樣品烘焙杯測,但烘焙度並不穩定,可能原因除了每天需多次烘焙外,更多注重的是杯測與價格。甚至有烘焙過深仍需杯測的狀況。
在台灣,作為杯測的烘焙度,一般是指7~9分進入第一次爆裂,第一次爆裂開始發展1分鐘下豆的烘焙度,這稱之為樣品烘焙。
樣品烘焙大多是產地寄送給生豆商的樣品,少則5~10支,多則數十支,每支生豆約50g或100g。
原本杯測方式在台灣的自家烘焙咖啡店並不盛行,主要是生豆貿易商內部使用;近二十年來台灣引進SCA與CQI的課程外,也舉辦了各種烘焙咖啡比賽、沖煮賽、杯測賽等,引起了年輕人投入學習發展杯測系統,因此台灣的烘豆師有不少比例都了解杯測方式甚至具備Q grader的證照。


After understanding the cupping protocol itself, the next point of discussion is the **roast level used for cupping**.

The roast level for cupping is often influenced by green coffee traders, since each trader has their own approach to roasting small batches of green beans for cupping purposes. There is no universally fixed rule. For example, during Kenyan green coffee auctions, sample roasts are provided for cupping, but the roast levels are not always consistent. This inconsistency may be due to the high frequency of roasting required each day, and the greater emphasis placed on cupping results and pricing. In some cases, beans are even roasted too dark, yet still used for cupping.

In Taiwan, the typical roast level for cupping is defined as dropping the beans 7–9 minutes into the roast, usually around **one minute into first crack**. This is referred to as **sample roasting**.

Sample roasts are usually small lots sent by producers to green coffee traders. The number of samples can range from 5–10 up to several dozen, with each sample typically weighing 50 g or 100 g.

Originally, cupping was not a common practice in Taiwan’s small independent roasteries; it was primarily used within green coffee trading companies. However, over the past 20 years, Taiwan has introduced **SCA and CQI courses**, along with hosting various roasting, brewing, and cupping competitions. This has encouraged many young people to study and develop cupping systems. As a result, a significant number of Taiwanese roasters today are familiar with cupping methods, and many even hold **Q Grader certification**.

目前的幾個建議:
1.學習杯測方式
2.採購品質較高的生豆進行少量烘焙
3.採購世界各地的Speciality Coffee Roaster 的咖啡豆,了解各國對於Speciality Coffee的風味。

Current recommendations:

1. Learn the cupping protocol
2. Purchase high-quality green beans for small-batch roasting
3. Procure coffee beans from Specialty Coffee roasters around the world to understand how different countries approach Specialty Coffee flavors

Speciality Coffee 更重視的是多樣化的生豆,在市場上受到歡迎的產區包括了衣索比亞、肯亞、哥倫比亞、瓜地馬拉、哥斯大黎加等,而品質風味更高的巴拿馬莊園咖啡豆則是Speciality Coffee的高價商品。而台灣的咖啡豆農更積極的學習與改良,並參與國際的各種生豆評鑑,以求提高利潤。
這也是Speciality Coffee的初衷,優秀的商品在消費市場中獲得更高的利潤促使生產者不斷改善商品的品質。

Specialty Coffee places greater emphasis on **diversity of green beans**. Popular origins in the market include Ethiopia, Kenya, Colombia, Guatemala, and Costa Rica, while high-quality Panamanian estate coffees are considered premium Specialty Coffee products.

Taiwanese coffee farmers are actively learning and improving their practices, participating in various international green coffee evaluations to increase their profits.

This reflects the original intent of Specialty Coffee: **outstanding products earn higher returns in the consumer market, which encourages producers to continuously improve quality**.

但是高品質的生豆如何推廣銷售?
這也是大多烘豆師思考的部分,生豆品質的提高,讓烘豆師可以表現更多豐富的風味,相對的價格也提高不少,這一點如何讓消費者能夠接受,則是依靠烘豆店家商業包裝的部分了。
因此推行評鑑課程,讓消費者了解咖啡烘焙的過程、生豆的來源等等,這些額外的資訊構築了Speciality Coffee 豐富風味外的價值。

But how can high-quality green beans be promoted and sold?

This is a key consideration for most roasters. Improving the quality of green beans allows roasters to express richer and more complex flavors, which in turn significantly increases the price. How to make this price acceptable to consumers relies largely on the roaster’s commercial packaging and presentation.

Therefore, offering **evaluation courses** that educate consumers about the roasting process, the origin of the beans, and other details adds value beyond just the flavor of Specialty Coffee. These additional insights help convey the full worth of Specialty Coffee to customers.






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